Monday, August 2, 2010

Greek Folklore - An Introduction to Greek Embroidery


Before I start presenting Greek traditional embroideries from different regions of Greece, I think that an introduction to Greek embroidery in general is necessary. 

Greek embroidery flourished between the middle of the 17th and the end of the 19th centuries. Embroideries were used to decorate the home, adorn traditional costumes, ecclesiastical garments and cloths. They could be identified according to their place of origin - Asia Minor, Constantinople, Cyprus, Thrace, mainland Greece, the Aegean or Ionian islands. Each region developed quite different styles and repertoires of designs using linen, cotton, and silk. Varying populations -- urban foreigners and rural natives, Catholic towns and Orthodox villages, invading navies and armies -- all contributed to a fusion of styles and motifs that led to one of the greatest displays of decorative folk art to be found anywhere in the world.

The styles range from aristocratic and patrician designs from Rhodes, the monochrome geometric work of Naxos, to the exuberant narrative style of Skyros and the Ottoman-influenced work of Epirus. Although styles and designs were transmitted either through commerce or marriage, particularly in the islands, strong regional patterns and techniques were preserved.
 
Depending on the materials used, Greek embroideries could be classified as (a) colored, worked in dyed threads, (b) white, using white silk or cotton threads, (c) lace, worked in cotton with needles, crochet or bobbins, and (d) gold-embroidered, produced with the use of metal threads, gold and silver wire and gilded wire.
 
The decorative motifs were arranged horizontally, vertically, diagonally or in a circle with patterns repeating or alternating. For example, bouquets or vases of flowers might alternate with cypress trees throughout an entire piece. Certain motifs were more popular such as the "tree of life" - a motif in Christian art referring to the Cross, signifying resurrection and eternal life, and also, fruitfulness and nature's bounty. Other common motifs were crosses, birds, flowers, double-headed eagles, churches, rosettes, anthemia - honeysuckle or palm leaves in radiating clusters, and geometric patterns.
 
The following embroideries are from the Greek Institute's permanent collection of embroideries, textiles and folk costumes.
 
 Table cover from Mytilene/Chios - a patchwork of motifs joined by Venetian-style lace
Silk and gold thread on cotton and linen - Wide variety of stitches, bobbin lace

Towel from Thrace - stylized men and women dancing
Silk thread, gold and silver wire on cotton - Counted thread and satin stitches

Tsevres from Thrace - "vase of life" with poppies and cypress trees
Silk thread, gold wire on cotton - Counted thread stitch


Can't wait to show you my handmade thracian tsevredes!

KP

Source:
Parts of the text and the photos are from the Greek Institute

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